Chiang Rai sits in the far north of Thailand where the Mekong, the Ruak and the Salween run close together before leaving the country. It is smaller and slower than Chiang Mai, and it has become known for contemporary art rather than old craft: Wat Rong Khun, the White Temple, was begun in 1997 by Chalermchai Kositpipat and is still being added to.
Thai, Lanna and Tai Lüng culture overlap here, and each town has its own temple character. Wat Rong Khun is the famous one, but Wat Huay Pla Kang on the Mekong bend and the gold-and-white Wat Saeng Kaeo are worth the walk. The province borders Laos and Myanmar, so the food reflects it too: nuea tong, sai ua sausage and buffalo cheese more than the northern canon usually admits.
Doi Tung, rebuilt as tea, coffee and flower plantations under the Royal Project led by Princess Mother Mae Fah Luang, is a cool green hour from the city and ends at the Royal Villa. Phu Chi Fa gives the view toward Laos, and the Golden Triangle marks the confluence where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet.
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